Vanlife Diaries Morocco: The Blue City of Chaouen

Getting closer to the Blue City, one gear change at a time.

Before setting off on our Moroccan adventure, we’d been told time and time again about the Blue City, or Chefchaouen (Chaouen) as we’ve now learned it’s called. Nestled in the Rif Mountains in northwest Morocco, Chefchaouen is surrounded by a dramatic mountainous landscape where the cerulean sky meets blue-washed buildings.

We loved exploring Tangier with its minimal tourist vibe and lively energy, so we braced for an influx of tourists when we ventured further south to Chef. Although tourist presence was higher, we escaped the hustle by venturing down quieter cobbled streets to immerse ourselves in the beautiful sea of blue.

Walking through a world of blue, colour, light, and energy.

Painted blue in the 1900s, the worn outer coating of the buildings uncovers endless layers of paint holding decades of stories. Walking around Chef is like entering somewhat of an underwater oasis and if you can escape the tourist trail - do it! Soaking up the marvel in peace allows your mind to wander and picture what the city was like before powder blue paint covered its every inch.

We didn’t bring Cali along for this adventure as stray dogs and cats are prevalent in Morocco, especially in cities. So we paid MAD 20 (€2) to park the van in a shady guarded car park so we could enjoy the city for a couple of hours and know the van and our little sprout would be safe.

One of the hundreds of stray cats we’ve already seen in under two weeks in Morocco.

Of course, we scouted out the entrance to the medina pretty quickly, and after shedding a tear or two over a very poorly stray dog, we readied ourselves for the hub of life inside the medina walls.

And it was absolutely captivating.

The people of Morocco have incredible and diverse ways of creative expression. From jewellery and hand-weaved clothing to intricately painted fabric and rainbow rugs, the craftsmanship is like nothing we’ve ever seen. Magenta, scarlet, and canary yellow pop against the blue walls, enticing travellers inside the cave-like stalls where rugs are piled high to the ceiling.

But ‘La Vida Colorada’ pulled us in and oh boy was it an experience!

La Vida Colorada- less of a stall and more of a heart warming experience.

We were welcomed into the space by Ibrahim, a warm-hearted local with a gift of both selling and connecting with people. Within minutes he was asking us where we’d come from, about our experience of Morocco so far, and began opening up about his family’s story.

At this point in our trip, we had only been able to communicate with a couple of Italians living in Morocco (all the hours of Portuguese finally paid off!), so it was amazing to meet Ibrahim and connect through mutual English.

Our new friend and herb master, Ibrahim.

We learned so much in such a short time. From the herbs that grow wild, free, and abundantly on the mountains to the natural dyes used for fabric. We drank copious amounts of tea, laughed, told stories and left La Vida Colorada with two rugs, several bags of herbs, and the biggest smiles. Chefchaouen is a breathtaking place to visit in Morocco, but it’s our experience with Ibrahim that we’ll most remember the city for.

We returned to the streets and began our journey back to the van, bellies full of sage, green, and lemon balm tea. Since the beginning of our vanlife travels, we’ve always preferred adventuring off the beaten path to get a full representation of places we visit. In Chef, this meant leaving the medina and circling back to Peppé (our beloved 30-year-old Mercedes if you didn’t already know!) and this meant seeing a whole other side of the city.

Gone was the hum of tourists and guides, and instead, a humbling near-silence drifted through the air as we strolled the empty streets. The distinct difference between the tourist and more residential parts of Chefchaouen is powerful, and maybe a sight not many people see. But for us, it’s essential to experience more than just the ‘Instagram-worthy’ spots and it gave us an entirely different perspective.

A quintessential Moroccan picture; strays, plants, local fruit and veg, and of course, an old Mercedes.

The backdrop of Chefchaouen.

Chefchaouen’s charming streets, art, and history inspire every visitor who ventures to its mountainous location. It offered us a haven to explore another of Morocco’s majestic cities and soak in every ounce of culture alongside the vivid blue hues.

Maybe we’ll return one day, but for now, we’re continuing our expedition south in search of sand, camels, and exhilarating adventures.

Biff x